Put the potatoes into a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, until just tender when pierced with a knife. Drain well and leave them to steam dry for 10 minutes.

While the potatoes cook, place the bacon in a cold frying pan. Set over medium heat and cook slowly until the fat renders and the bacon turns deeply crisp, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper, then chop into small pieces once cool enough to handle.

In a bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, Dijon mustard, wholegrain mustard, white wine vinegar, honey, olive oil, fine sea salt and black pepper. Stir until smooth. Taste it. It should feel punchy, savoury and slightly tangy because the potatoes will soften the flavour later.

Tip the warm potatoes into a large bowl. Spoon over the dressing and fold gently until everything is coated. Warm potatoes absorb flavour better than cold ones, so this step makes a big difference.

Fold through the spring onions, chives, parsley and celery if using. Hold back a small amount of herbs and spring onion for finishing if you want the bowl to look a bit sharper.

Scatter the chopped bacon over the salad and fold about half of it through. Leave the rest on top so it stays crisp. Taste and adjust with extra pepper or a little more vinegar if it needs brightening.

You can serve this slightly warm, cool or fully chilled. I usually give it 20 to 30 minutes in the fridge so the dressing settles and the flavours knit together without losing the bacon’s contrast.