Pat the wings dry with kitchen paper. Split whole wings into flats and drumettes if needed. In a large bowl, mix the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, grated garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, onion granules, smoked paprika and honey.

Add the wings and toss until every piece is coated. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours. I wouldn’t push much past that because too much acid can start to tighten the surface and leave the texture a bit firm rather than juicy.

Stir the Greek yoghurt, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, dill and salt together in a bowl. Refrigerate until needed.

Taste it after 10 minutes. Garlic blooms as it sits, so what seems mild at first can turn punchy. I want this cool and savoury, not aggressive enough to drown the wings.

Prepare the BBQ for two-zone cooking, one side medium-high, the other side medium-low. On a kettle or ceramic grill, I aim for roughly 200 to 220°C inside the pit.

Take the wings from the fridge 20 minutes before cooking. Shake off excess marinade so it doesn’t drip and scorch too hard on the grate.

Place the wings on the cooler side first. Close the lid and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once or twice, until the fat starts to render and the skin looks dry rather than slick.

This early stage matters. If you start all the wings over fierce direct heat, the outside catches before the fat underneath has had time to render.

Shift the wings to the hotter side and grill for 8 to 12 minutes, turning often, until the skin is blistered in places and the internal temperature reaches at least 74°C.

Mix the finishing olive oil with the extra oregano and parsley, then spoon or brush it over the hot wings as they come off. That fresh layer wakes the whole batch up.

Rest the wings for 5 minutes. Serve with the garlic yoghurt on the side or lightly drizzled over the top, plus lemon wedges for squeezing.

I usually leave some wings plain and keep the yoghurt in a bowl so everyone can choose their own ratio of smoke, lemon and cooling dairy.