Put the potatoes in a large pan, cover with cold water and add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a steady boil, then simmer for 12 to 16 minutes until a knife slides through with light resistance. Don’t let them burst.

While the potatoes cook, fry the bacon over medium heat until the fat renders and the pieces turn crisp at the edges. If the pan looks dry, add the olive oil. Lift the bacon onto kitchen paper, but keep one tablespoon of the bacon fat for the dressing.

In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, Greek yoghurt, Dijon mustard, wholegrain mustard, cider vinegar, pickle brine, smoked paprika, black pepper and the reserved bacon fat. Taste before adding all the salt, because bacon and pickles bring plenty.

Drain the potatoes well and let them steam dry for 3 minutes. Add them to the dressing while still warm, then fold gently until every piece is coated. Warm potatoes absorb flavour much better than fridge-cold ones.

Fold in the chopped pickles, shallot, crisp bacon and most of the chives. Keep a few chives back for the top. Don’t stir aggressively. You want edges that catch dressing, not broken potato rubble.

Cover and chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight. Take the salad out of the fridge 20 minutes before serving, then loosen with a spoonful of yoghurt or pickle brine if needed. Scatter over the remaining chives.